My RV–10 X Aircraft Build

X-10’s NEW WEB SITE !!!!!!!! MOVING MOVING MOVING

June 19, 2009

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I am moving this "Blog" of building the X-10 to a new web site, called KITLOG Pro V2.0. Van’s offered this software for sale at a price of $49.00 dollars and because I would like a nice album of what I am doing for the FAA, DAR, future potential buyer and myself I am switching to KIT LOG Pro V2.0 that offers a very nice .pdf print out of such items as, building log, expense log, weights and balances, etc… of the step by step process of building the X-10 in relationship to the Van’s kit plan set. There are also about 591 Builders of others X-Aircraft project "uploads", that you might find very interesting.

My New Web Site is => http://www.mykitlog.com/conrad

Other Builders Web site is => http://www.mykitlog.com/search.php

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The Wings are Completed ~ 400 hours or 8 Months of Off_On Work

the Completed Wings w/out the Flaps are both in the Shed

Right Wing with Wing Tip Fairing Light

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X-10 WINGS COMPLETE !!!!! 400 hrs

June 19th, 2009……. I am declaring the X_10 WINGS COMPLETED, except for final paint, and it’s time to get prepared for the delivery of the next sub-kit, the FUSELAGE sometime around the 4th of July, 2009. Total time for the WING kit was about from November 15th to June 19th (~ 8 months ) and right around 400 hours that will include painting with primer/finisher. Overall the X-10 WING building was actully FUN, with the exception of riveting a few places that were hard to reach on the wing skins, overall the assigned tasks were not very difficult. No real advice for other builders except just keep to your schedual and before you know-it the WING kit will be complete.

Total time to date => 739 hours or 13 months of hobby work……….

Landing Lights Section OP36-3 … Steps 1 to 10

June 16, 2009

6/10/2009 … Section OP36-3 … Steps 1 to 10 … I completed the light kit for the X-10. Beginning with WING TIP NUT PLATE INSTALLATION step 1 to 3 by attaching the nut plates as shown on page 36-3 figure 1. Then I created the halogen light fixture VA-194C MR16 Cup as shown in figure 2. I then primed the parts with DTS primer and ass the LANDING LIGHT SUBASSEMBLY as in figure 3. Finally attached the completed subassembly LC-EYF MR16 75 Watt Narrow Beam Bulb (both left and right ) to the LC MR16 2 pin Disk socket as shown in figure 4 LANDING LIGHT SUBASSEMBLY INSTALLATION and attached to the W-1015-L/R Wing Tip assembly. Time about 3 hours for both Left and Right Landing Light.

Landing Lights Test Fit into the Wing Tips

Van’s, Leading Edge and NAV Lights Power Connection Strip

Landing Lights Section OP36-3 … Steps 1 to 10

6/09/2009 … Section OP36-2 … Steps 1 to 9 … TRIMMING THE MR16 CUP, step 1 placed the VA-194B over the VA-194C and traced an outline an then removed the “hatched” area as shown in figure 1. CUTTING THE COMPRESSION SPRING, Step 2 I and two compression spring by cutting 1 .26X2.9 springs as shown in figure 2. MAKING THE MOUNT TUBES, step 3 I fabricated six Mount Tubes from AT6-058X5/16 aluminum tubing. Step 3 PREPARING THE WING TIP for cutting. I centered the W-1032 Landing Light Base Plate on the face of the Wing Tip as shown in figure 4 and Match Drilled using a #27 drill the holes as shown and then machine counter sunk the appropriate holes for K100-06 Nut plates for the match drilled #40 holes and rivet with AN426AD3 flush rivets. Step 9 following the dimensions as show in figure 4 I measured and marked the area appropriately and then removed the shown hatched area with a Uni-Bit drill and then a hacksaw. After obtaining a rough fit opening I used a grinder and a sander to smooth-up the rough edges. Time about 3 hours for both Left and Right Wing Tips.

Halogen 75 watt Wing Tip Land ing Light Assembled

Leading Edge 75watt halogen light from Team Rocket

Wing Tips Section 24-3 Steps 5 to 7

June 7, 2009

6/7/2009 Section Page 24-3 Step 5 to 7. LAYING OUT THE WING TIP AFT RIVET PATTERN, step 5, I inserted the W-10016 Wing Tip Rib into the aft position roughly 2/3/8 inch from the aft end of the Wing Tip, as shown in Figure 3 Wing TIP RIB ISO View. Marked the Wing Tip at 5/16 inch for drilling #40 holes every 1.5 inches started drilling holes. Machine countersunk the #40 holes just drilled in the Wing Tip to accept the head of AN426AD3-4 rivets. Removed the Wing Tip Rib and removed the alodine coating and primed the reinserted into the Wing Tip assembly and riveted in place. Time for both Left and Right Wing Tips about 2 hours.

Both Wing Tips Cut-out for the Installation for the Landing Lights

Lens is Fitted Correctly

Wing Tips Section 24-3 Steps 1 to 4

6/6/2009 … Section 24 Page 24-3 Steps 1 to 4. NUTPLATE ATTACHMENT, Step 1 I Match Drilled #40 then clecoed as I when the Wing Tip attachment holes to the existing holes in the W-1001 Leading Edge Wing Skins, W-1003- Top Outboard Wing Skins and W-1005 Bottom Wing Skins. Now final drill all the #40 Wing holes to #28. Place a #6 screw into the Wing Tips and screw into the nutplates K1000-06 as seen in Figure 1. Step 4, Drill #40 holes into each nutplate to attach AN426Ad3-4 rivets, and after deburring machine countersink the #40 and the #6 screw holes. Also using a #6 dimple die you must dimple the Wing Skins to receive a #6 screw. Time about 4 hours for both wings.

Installing the Nut Plates

Wing Tips Sectiuon 24 -2

6/5/2009 .. Wing Tips Section 24, Page 24-2, Steps 1 to 6. WING TIP TOP and Bottom TRIM, Step 1, I trimmed the edge of the Wing Tip W-1015-L using air rotary cutting saw the edge of the fiberglass at meeting location W-1015-L and Top and Bottom Aluminum Wing Skins W-1003 to ½ inches. Then checked for fit and trimmed as necessary again. Then trimmed the area where the Aileron meets the Wing Tip to just 3/16 inch. Also I checked the work when the Aileron was activated to its full position. LENS MODIFICATION, Steps, 3 to 5. The plan is incorrect in how to cut and install the Lens. I called Van’s technical assistance and asked them to clarify as the kit supplied a different VA-193-L . But after talking to Van’s I discovered that I was supplied with a newer, simpler to install and better VA-193-L part. I placed and then taped the Lens over the Wing Tip light recess area and trimmed with a set of “snipers” to 1/8 inch and then filled to obtain a perfect fit. Step 5, I #40 drilled the VA-193-L left Lens at the Upper and Lower recessed corners at 5/16 inches, see Figure 5. LENS INSTALL. Step 6, I match drilled #40 the Nut Plate attachment pattern into the corner recesses to attach the Lens with a #6 screw. I counter sunk the top of the Lens for #6 screws. Step 7 Install the hardware as shown in figure 5. Time about 8 hours for both left and right Wing Tips.

Checking the Fit between the Wing Slins and Wing Tip Faring

Trimmed the Wing Tip Faring to obtain the 3/16 inch gap between the Aileron and Wing Faring

Flaps Section 23-5 Steps 1 to 4

6/3/2009 …Section 23-5, Steps 1 to 4. Step 1, FORWARD TORQUE TUBE SUB-ASSEMBLY, I inserted the VA-162 Push Rod End into the Long end of the two WD-1014 Aileron Torque Tubes and then Match Drilled with a #30 drill the holes, removed the Push Rod Ends and deburred the holes. Step 2, AFT TORQUE TUBE SUBASSEMBLY, this is a repeat to step 1 but insert the VA-162 Push Rod Ends into the SHORT ends of the Aileron Torque Tubes. Step 4, MATCH DRILL TORQUE TUBE COLLAR, I inserted the previously made WD-1014 FORWARD Torque Tube Sub-assembly to the Torque Tube Collars WD-1014C by only 1 -1 /2 inches as shown in figure 3. Then I Match drilled the toque tube collar using the holes of the torque tub sub-assembly using a #30 drill. I then Final drilled the holes with a number 12 drill bit. Step 4, TORQUE TUBE COLLAR BOLT INSTALLATION, I deburred all the #12 holes in order to prepare for the installation of four AN3-13A bolts, AN960-10 washers and AN365-1032 lock nuts. Then I primed with DTS primer all of the sub-assemblies including the insides. Total Time about 4 hours.

Primed Torque Tubes, Push Rods and BellCrank Tubes

Flaps Section 23-5 Steps 1 and 2

6/2/2009 … Section 23-5 Step 1 and 2. AILERON BELL CRANK BUSHING INSTALLATION, Step 1, I Deburred the brass bushing BR-065 X .375 X 2.781 Aileron Bellcrank Bushing and trimmed to the exact length of 2 and 3/ 4 inch and then filed the inside of the WD-421 Aileron Bellcrank to accept the Brash Bushing. Then as explained in the instructions I at first filed and then reamed with a 1 /4 inch drill bit the inside of the Brash Bushing to accept an AN4 bolt. Step 2, AILERON BELL CRANK INSTALLATION. I installed the WD-421-L/R Aileron Bellcrank with Brash Bush sub-assembly into the left wing assembly as described in figure 2. And tighten the AN4-32A bolt to 70 inch/pounds. Time for both wings about 2 hours.

Flaps Section 23-3 Step 4 and 5

6/01/2009 … Section 23-3 Steps 4 and 5…. ROD END BEARING AND JAM NUT INSTALLATION, I installed the Jam Nut AN316-4 onto the F3414M Rod End Bearing and then screwed the assembly on to the Threaded Rod Bearing AN490-HT8P for both W-1018A rod assemblies. Step 5, AILERON BELL CRANK SPACER FABRICATION, I created two SPACERS by cutting a stock piece of aluminum AT6-058 X 5/16 inch to the exact length of 1 and 1/16 inch. Time about 1 hour for both Flaps.

Aileron Actuators Section 23-3 Steps 1 to3

May 31, 2009

5/30/2009 … Section 23-3 Steps 1 to 3. Step 1, BELLCRANK TO AILERON PUSHROD FABRICATION, I fabricated two Bellcrank to Aileron PushRods W-1018A by cutting two pieces of ST4130-035 X ½ inch to a length of 21 and 11/ 32 inches. Step 2, PILOT-DRILL BELLCRANK TO AILERON PUSHROD, I drilled four holes of #40 size 90 degrees opposite, two holes 7/32 inches from the end of the Bellcrank to Aileron PushRods and two 13/32 inches from the same end of Bellcrank to Aileron PushRods. This is accomplished at all four ends of the Bellcrank to Aileron PushRods. Step 3, THREADED ROD END INSTALLATION, I inserted the Threaded Rod End, AN490-HT8P in to each end of the Bellcrank to Aileron PushRods W-1018A. The using a #30 drill bit match drilled the previously created #40 pilot holes until I have all four ends completed. Removed the Threaded Rod End, AN490-HT8P and then de-bured all the necessary holes and then primed the assembly both outside and the Inside of the Rods. Time about 3 hours for both Rods.

Aileron Actuators Section 23-2 Steps 3 to4

5/29/2009 …. Section 23-2 Steps 3 and 4. Step 3 continued, THREADED ROD END INSTALLATION, I inserted the VA-169 Threaded Rod End into the Torque Tube end and riveted with MSP-42 pop rivets as shown in figure 2. Step 4, I first installed the AN316-6 Jam Nut onto the MD3614M Rod Eye End Bearing Bolt and then screwed this assembly into the VA-169 Threaded Rod End. The ides is to make the completed assembly 94 and 7/16 inches from the center eye hole of MD3614M Rod Eye End Bearing to the other MD3614M Rod Eye End Bearing. Time about 3 hours for both tubes.

Aileron Actuators Section 23-2 Steps 1 to3

5/28/2009 … Aileron Actuators …. Section 23-2, Steps 1 to 3, TORQUE TUBE TO BELL CRANK PUSHROD FABRICATION, I created the Torque Tube W-1017A by cutting a piece of AT6-049 X 1 ¼ inch aluminum tubing to exactly 90 and 5/8 inches. Step 2, using the paper cut out template supplied with the plans I wrapped the template around each end of the previous cut Torque Tube and marked the holes as indicated. Then I drilled with a #40 drill bit six pilot holes as in each end of the Torque Tubes. Step 3, I inserted the VA-169 Threaded Rod Ends into the ends of the Torque Tubes and using the previously drilled pilots holes re-drilled to #30 size. And now I primed with DTM Primer/Finisher the outside and INSIDE if the Torque Tube . Time about 3 hours for both Tubes.

Flaps Section 22-7 Step 4 and 5

May 25, 2009

5/25/2009 … Section 22-7 Step 4 and 5. RIVETING NOSE AND TOP SKINS. With the Flap Assembly in the cradle I began by inserting and riveting the Inboard and Outboard Nose Skins FL-1001A/B and the Top Skins FL-1001-C and the edge Main Ribs FL-1005=L/R to the Main Spar flange FL-1003-L with AN426AD3-3.5 and AN426AD3-4 as shown in Figure 4. Remembering not to rivet the last two aft rivets holes in the Top Skins until the page 22-8. Time for both Flaps about 4 hours.

Flaps Section 22-7 Step 2 and 3

5/24/3009 … Section 22-7 Step 2 and 3. ATTACHING NOSE SKINS, Step 2 After applying a slight bend to theFL-1001B-L and FL-1001A-L Nose Skins trailing edges with a seamer tool. Slipped the skin sets over the Nose Ribs and clecoed in place. ATTACHING TOP SKIN, Step 3 I placed the Flap assembly in to the cradle and added the Top Skin FL-1001-C to be clecoed to the Main Spar FL-1003-L. In prep reparation for riveting the Top Skin between the Nose Rib Skins and Main Rib as shown in Figure 3. Time about 5 hours for both Flaps.

Flaps Section 22-7 Step 1

May 23, 2009

5/23/2009 .. Section 22-7 Step 1 I took the previously completed subassemblies and using AN470AD4-4 riveted the FL-10004 –L Nose Ribs FL-1005-L and FL-1005-R Main Ribs and Rod End assemblies, Hinge Pair subassemblies and Center Hinge subassemblies to the Main Spar FL-1003-L as shown in Figure 1. Time for both Left and Right Flaps 4 hours.

Main Spar with Hinge Bracket, Main Ribs and Nose Ribs Sub-Assemblies Attached

Flaps Section 22-6 Steps 1 to 6

5/18/2009 – 5/22/2009 Section 22-6 Steps 1 to 6. OUTBOARD ROD END RIB SUBASSEMBLY, I completed the sub-assembly step 1 by riveting the Nose Rib FL-1004-L to Doubler FL-1006 using AN470AD4-4 and AN426AD3-4.5 to the Nut Plate MK100-428 as shown in Figure 1. INBOARD ROD END RIB SUBASSEMBLY, Step 2, riveting the Nose Rib FL-1004-L to Doubler FL-1006 using AN470AD4-4 rivets as shown in figure 2. LEFT HINGE PAIR RIB SUBASSEMBLY, Step 3, and Riveted together the two Left hinge pair subassemblies FL-1007-L and FL-1004-L using AN470AN4-4 rivets as described in Figure 3. RIGHT HINGE PAIR RIB SUBASSEMBLY, Step 4, and Riveted together the two Right hinge pair subassemblies FL-1007-R and FL-1004-R using AN470AN4-4 rivets as described in Figure 4. HINGE PAIR SUBASSEMBLY, Step 5, Double flush riveted “joggled” flanges of the Right and Left Hinge Pair Bracket assembly completed in steps 3 and 4, see Figure 5. CENTER HINGE SUBASSEMBLY, Step 6, Riveted together the Center Hinge Par Bracket sub-assembly using AN470ANAD4-10 (long rivets) as shown in Figure 6. Then Double Flush riveted the “Joggled” flanges using AN426AN3-3.5 rivets. Time for both Left and Right Flaps, 5 hours.

Hinge Bracket Sub-Assemblies Completed

Nose Ribs Ready for the Priming Process

Flaps Section 22-5 Step 5

5/17/2009 … Section 22-5 Step 5. I dimpled, deburred and the primed all the parts in the previous step including the Top and Bottom Flap Skins. Time about 3 hours for the complex dimpling and deburring process.

Flap Skins Top and Bottom, Dimpled, Deburred and Primed

Flaps Section 22-5 Steps 1 to 5

May 18, 2009

5/13/2009 … 5/15/2009 22-5, Concerning Steps 1 to 6 I clecoed back together the Flap assembly (left and right) after previously deburring the Hinge Brackets Fl-1007L/R, Nose Ribs FL-1004 L/R, Doublers FL-1006 L/R, Spacers FL-1008 L/R, Main Ribs FL-1005 L/R and the Main Spar FL-1003-L/R including the lighting holes. Step 1, I then assembled the Bottom Skin FL-1002, Top Skin FL-1001C, Inboard Nose Skin FL-1001A-L and Nose Skin Outboard FL-1001B-L as shown in Figure 1 page 22-5. Step 2, I inserted the Trailing Edge (made with the VA-140 stock) between the Bottom Skin FL-1002 and Top Skin FL-1001 C as also shown in Figure 1. Then Final Drilled all the #40 holes in common including Match-Drilling the Nose Ribs where necessary to the Nose Skins. Step 3, using the hardware AN4-7 bolt, AN960-416L washer, AN960-416 washer and AN310-4 nut as shown on 22-3, Figure 4 to the Hinge Brackets FL-1004-L/R to prevent the assembly from moving. Then after further securing with a pair of Vise-Grips, I Match-Drilled the four, #40 holes found on the joggled flanges. I marked the Hinge Brackets, Skins and anything else of significance with a red magic marker before disassembling the Left and Right Flaps. Step 5, after disassembly I machine counter sunk with a #40 size installed bit in the micro-counter sink the four exterior #40 holes on each of the Hinge Brackets FL-1007 L/R. This is because I will use AN426AN-3-4 flush rivet for the double flush riveting process.
Time for both Left and Right Flaps, three total days of working part time, ~10 hours.

Left adn Right Flaps Clecoed and ready for Final Drilling

Left Flap in the Final Drilling Process

Flaps Section 22-4

May 10, 2009

05/11/2009 … 22-4, Step 1 and 2. Step 1 was to trim off a small tab off all the FL-1005-R/L Main Ribs. I accomplished this with some tin snips and the task was accomplished very quickly. See Figure 1 for details on the amount to be removed. Step 2, is to clecoed all the previously created sub-assemblies FL-1004-L Nose Rib, FL-1005-L, FL-1005-R Main Ribs, the Rod End Ribs Center Hinge Sub-Assembly and Hinge Pairs to the FL-1003-L Spar and getting all the ribs flanges facing the correct direction as described in Figure 2. Finally Final Drill #30 all common holes of these items to the main spar. And then repeat the process for the Right Aileron. Time about 3 hours.

FL-1005 Mian Ribs, FL-1004 Nose Ribs and FL-1007 Hinge Brackets Attached to the FL-1001 Main Spar

Flaps Section 22-3

05/10/2009 …. 22-3, Step 1 to 4. Step 1, Clecoed the two previously created Left Hinge Pair Ribs sub-assembly that are made up of the FL-1004-L Nose Rib and the FL-1007 Hinge Bracket as shown in Figure 1. Then Final Drilled #30 the 1/8 inch holes in common. Step 2, Basically the repeat of Step 1 but you use the Hinge Bracket FL-1007-R (right) and FL-1004-R (right) Nose Ribs. This created the right Hinge Pair Rib Sub-Assembly. Step 3, This describes a method for lighting the FL-1008 Aluminum Spacers but I passed on this since they are only made of aluminum and weight saving would be less than 1 pound. Step 4, I Clecoed together the Center Hinge Sub-Assemblies for both Ailerons following Figure 4. First I placed the two FL-1008 Spacers between the FL-1007-L and FL-1007-R Hinge brackets and added the FL-1004-L/R Nose Ribs on each side of the Hinge Brackets. Then Final Drilled the nine 1/8 inch holes common to all six assembled parts. Finally disassembled all the parts and debured and re-assemble using clecos. Time for all of this (both Left and Right Ailerons) about leisurely 4 hours.

FL-1104 Nose Ribs and FL-1005 Main Rib Flanges

Flaps Section 22-2

05/09/2009 …. 22-2, Step 2 to 5. Step 1 was previously completed as I needed the cradles for the Aileron project. Step 2, I skipped for now and will come back to this after I unwrap the FL-1001C Top Skin and FL-1002 Bottom Skins from their plastic coating. Step 3, I carefully marked the three FL-1007-L Hinge Brackets as shown in Figure 3 and drilled one Hinge Bracket with a #40 drill in the four places I marked with the Drill Press. Then after checking the holes again for the correct dimensions I placed the other two Hinge Brackets (one at a time) in alignment with the pre-drilled holes and drill both. Step 4, I clecoed the FL-1006 Doubler to the FL-1004-L Nose Rib as shown in Figure 4. Then Final Drilled the large ¼ inch hole and the #30 size holes and two #40 3/32 inch doubler holes and machine counter sank the two 3/32 holes flush on the FL-1006 doubler. This creates the Out Board Rod End Rib sub-ssembles that will attach to the FL-1001-L Main Spar. Step 5, Created the In Board Rod End sub-assemblies by first clecoing the thick aluminum FL-1006 Doubler to the FL-1004-R Nose Rib as shown in Figure 5. Again as in step 4 Final Drill the #30 holes and the ¼ inch hole in the Doubler. However do not drill the #40 3/32 inch holes. Time about 3 hours for both left and Right Ailerons.

Ailerons 21-7, Step 5

05/08/2009 … 21-7, Step 5. I removed the A-1001 Trailing Edge from both Ailerons and applied a thin coat of the “Pro-Seal” mixture and ten reinserted the Trailing Edge’s back into the Ailerons and secured with clecos and proceeded to weight down the Ailerons with a 2X6 and 1 gallon water bottles. After waiting about 3 days I will proceed to rivet the Ailerons. Time about 1 hour for both Ailerons.

Both Ailerons Trailing Edges "Pro-Sealed" and Weighted Down

Clse Up View of Bracket Hardware Installed and Tourqued

Ailerons 21-7, Step 1 to 4

05/07/2009 … 21-7, Step 1 to 4 ….. Turned the assembly over and riveted the assigned areas and the Counter Balance as shown in Figure 1 then flipped the Aileron over and riveted (set) all the A-1004-L and A-1—1A Nose Skin rivets and tall the A-10015-R Inboard Nose Ribs and set all the A-1005 Main Rib to A-1001B Top Skin as shown in Figure 2. Now again turned the Aileron over and set the remaining A-1015-R Inboard Nose Ribs to A-1010A-L Nose Skin and the remaining A-1005-L Main Rib to A-1002 Bottom Skin. Then I repeated this process for the Right Aileron as shown in Figure 3. Time about 2 hours for both ailerons.

Ailerons 21-6, Step 3 and 4

May 7, 2009

05/06/2009 … 21-6, Step 3 and 4……Clecoed the end ribs A1005-L and A-1005-R to the Main Ribs using AN426AD3-4 rivets as shown in Figure 3. Then added the Trailing Edge A-1011 to the trailing edge of the Aileron Assembly and clecoing every other hole. Finally removed the cleoes from the upper flanges of A-1005-L and A-1005-R Main Ribs and the A-1004-L Nose Rib and the A-1015-R Inboard Nose Rib in preparation of removing and then flipping the assembly over and begin riveting the assembly as described on Page 21-7. Time only 1 hour for both Ailerons.

Ailerons 21-6, Step 2 (Continued)

05/05/2009 … 21-6 Completed Step 2 with for the Bottom Skin Assembly. Time only 1 hour for both Skins.

Ailerons Section 21-6 Step 2

May 6, 2009

05/04/2009 … 21-6, Step 2. Clecoed at every other hole the Top Skin Assembly A-1001-L (top) to the top Flange of the Spar Assembly. Placed AN426AD-3.3.5 rivets, secured with tape and riveted with a mush-room type set and bucked with the tungsten bar, removed the clecoes and repeated the process. Time for both Ailerons about 2 hours.

Right Top Skin Attached to Spar

Same Picture Different Angle

Ailerons Section 21-6 Step 1

05/03/2009 … 21-6 Steps 1. With the previously assembly Spar A-1003-L in the cradle I lowered the A-1001A-L Nose Skin and attached with clecos the A-1004-L and A-1004-R Nose Ribs. Then using Blind Rivets LP4-3 I riveted the AS-1004-R Nose Rib to the Spar Assembly then riveted just the A-1004-L and A-1015-R with AN470AD4-5 in six places as shown in Figure 1. Time only about 1 hour for both Ailerons.

Ailerons Section 21-5 Steps 4 to 5

05/02/2009 … 21-5, Steps 4 and 5. Attached the A-1004-L and A-1004 Nose Ribs to the A-1009 Counter Balance (Stainless Steal Pipe) by using three AN526C-632R8 stainless screws and three AN365-632A nuts. Then I place the Nose Rib and Counter Balance assembly into the deburred and dimpled A-1001A-l Nose Skin and then I attached the A-10015 R Inboard Nose Rib using clecos. Step 5, I placed the assembly into the set of cradles and using Blind Rivets MK-319-BS I riveted the tow most forward #40 holes in the A-1004-R Nose Rib and using regular solid AN426AD-3-3.5 to the nose rib as described in Figure 4. Time about 3 leisure Sunday hours for both Ailerons.

Counter Balance "Stainless Steel Pipe" in A-1001-L/R Nose Skin

Aileron Section 21-5 Step 3

5/01/2009 … 21-5, step 3. Clecoed the A-1014 Spacer to the A-1003 Spar. Then I riveted the two A-1008 Doublers to the A-1003 Spar and then using K1000-3 Nut-plates to the spar with the Rivet head flush on the Doubler forward side as specified in Figure 2 Attach Doublers. Time about 1 hour for both Spars L/R.

Ailerons Section 21-4 Steps 1 to 3

April 29, 2009

4/28/2009 , Section 21-4 Steps 1 to 3. Attached the Bottom Skin Assembly to the Spar and the Main Ribs A-1005-L/R Assembly as described in Figure 1, page 21-4. Then final drilled #40 the common holes of the Spar Ribs to the Bottom Skin and then after disassembly dimpled both of the same. Reconnected the Spar Ribs to the Bottom Skin and the Main Spar with cleoes and then temporally removed the clecos after riveting the number 2 and 5 holes with AN426D3-3.5 rivets that will be removed later. (see Figure 1 for details). Then I buffed or ground down the edges of the 4 A-1015 R/R nose ribs as described in Figure 2 for a greater curved appearance . Time about 2 hours for both ailerons.

Bottom Skin Clecoed to the Spar and "D"-Nose

Ailerons Section 21-3 Step 8

4/27/2009 Section 21-3 Step 8. Returned from Sun-n-Fun, 2009. I completed riveting all the Rib Stiffeners A-710 to the Aileron Skins (36 total) by the “back” riveting method, leaving no dents on the thin upper aileron surfaces. Time only 2 hours for both ailerons.

Competed Back Riveting the Aileron Skins

EAA Sun-n-Fun 2009

4/24/2009 This weekend I visited the EAA Sun-n-Fun shown at Lakeland, Florida and visited all the RV-10’s that were on display. Had a Great Time !!

Just Completed with Only 49 Hours on the Tac

X-10 Cockpit Panel on Display

Ailerons Section 21-3 Steps 6 to 8

4/22/2009 … Section 21-3 Steps 6 to 8 After orienting the A-1001B Top Skin and the A1002 Bottom Skins I placed and clecoed the A-710 Rib Stiffer according to Figure 4 and Section AA on page 21-3. Then final drilled all the #40 holes common to the Stiffeners and the Top Skins. Then repeated the process for the Bottom Skins and the other right aileron, disassembled and then deburred and dimpled with a #40 dimple die all holes common to the stiffeners and the bottom skins. And then primed all parts with DTMS Primer. Time about 3 hours for both ailerons.

Aileron Parts Primmed

Ailerons Section 21-3

April 21, 2009

4/18/2009 Section 21-3 Ailerons Steps 1 to 5 …. Step 1, Beginning with the Out-Board Hinge Bracket I clecoed the Main Rib, A-1005-L to the Spar Assembly A-1003-L and final drill the #40 holes to be counter-sunk as shown in Figure 1. Clecoed the Out-board Bracket, A-1006 also to the Spar Assembly and Match-Drilled #30 where shown. Step 2, Then using a 3/16 inch bit I final drilled through the Hinge Bracket, Doubler, Spar and Main Rib Spar Attachment Flange. Step 3, Then removed the Outboard Hinge Bracket and debured and counter-sunk the two # 40 holes. Repeated for the Right Aileron. Step 4, Moving on to the In-Board Hinge Bracket I repeated the process by clecoing the Main Rib, A-1005-R to the Spar Assembly, Final-Drilling #40 the four holes to be counter sunk as shown in Figure 2. Then clecoed the In-Board Hinge Bracket A-1007-L and Final-Drilled using a 3/16 inch drill through the two Bracket holes and into the Spar Doubler A-1008 and Main Rib A-1005-R. Then after testing the 3/16 inch holes with AN-3 bolts I removing the Bracket and Deburred and then counter-sunk the four #40 holes. Repeated the above for the Right Aileron. Step 5, Cut the A-710 Stiffeners from the provided angle strip aluminum as shown in Figure 3. There are 20 of these per Aileron so using the Sears Band saw with the aluminum cutting blade installed I marked and cut-out a total of 40 of these remembering to trim 13/32 inch out of each as shown in the figure. Total time about 4 hours.

A-710 Clecoed to Bottom and Top Aileron Skins

20 in Quanity of A-710 After Deburring

Ailerons Section 21-2

4/17/2009 … Section 21 Ailerons …. Completed steps 1 to 5 on Page 21-2. You need to make the Right Aileron in tandem with the Left Aileron. Step1, after locating all the pieces in Figure 1, I placed and clecoed the Doubler A-1008, Nose Rib A-1004L to the single Spar, A-1003L. Step 2, then clecoed another Nose Rib A-1004-R to the Spacer Bar A-1014 to the center of the Spar A-1003-L. And clecoed another (the third) Inboard Nose Rib A-1015-R and the Doubler A-1008 to the Inboard End of the Spar A-1003-L. Final Drilled #30 the nine holes three per spacer or doubler and spacer as shown in Figure 1. Then Final Drilled with a #30 drill bit the four holes through the Spar and Doubler as shown. Step 3, after satisfied with the Match and Final Drilling of the previous step I inserted the Counterbalance, A-1009 (steal pipe) clecoed the Nose Skin, A-1001A-l to the lower flange of the Spar A-1003-L using every third hole I placed a cleco by pressing down firmly. Then after locating the six small #40 size holes at the tip of the leading edge of the Nose Skin, A-1001A-L, I Match Drilled with a #40 drill bit and then used a #30 drill bit. I removed the bottom cleoes from the Spar A-1003-L, Doubler A-1008 and Nose Rib A-1004-L then according to Figure 3 I drilled with an extended #30 drill bit the three holes as shown. After removing the A-1001-L Nose Skin and the steel pipe counter-weight I final drilled (reamed) the same three # 30 holes out to #27. Finally removed the Inboard Nose Rib from the Spar A-1003-L. Repeated all the above for the Right Aileron. Time only about 2 hours for both as the size of the pieces was quite small.

X-10 NACA 23013.5 Air Foil

April 12, 2009

The RV-10 has an Airfoil of NACA 23013.5 and has the following properties:

1) A maximum thickness of 13.5% of cord length

2) A design lift coefficient of 0.33.

3) And a maximum camber located 15% back from the leading edge.

NACA 23013.5 Airfoil is determined by the follwoing:

This can be defined as the first digit, when multiplied by 3/2, yields the design lift coefficient (cl) in tenths.

The next two digits, when divided by 2, give the position of the maximum camber (p) in tenths of chord.

The final two digits again indicate the maximum thickness (t) in percentage of chord.

The following is a set of computer software programs for analysis, design and study of airfoils.
Free software for printing air foils

X-FOILS Subsonic Airfoil Development System

New updated Summer 2008

http://web.mit.edu/drela/Public/web/xfoil/

Is new, standard versionis $49, but is expensive for the complete edition

http://www.dreesecode.com/index.html

CB…….. Spring 2009

X-10 Air Foil

X-10 NACA 23013.5 Wing Foil with Modified Fowler Flap Assembly

Bottom Wing Skins Section 20-5 Step 11 Right Wing

April 10, 2009

04/12/2009 … Section 20 Bottom Wing Skins ….Page 20-5 step 11. With the Right Wing Assembly in the cradle I laid the dimpled and primed W-1028A Wing Box J-Channel Stiffener into the rib notches and then clecoed the dimpled and primed W-1005-R Bottom Inboard Wing Skin to the bottom flanges at the rear spar in preparation for being riveted. Then I used some stainless wire as in the previous step and tied back the aluminum W-1005-R Bottom Skin so I could reach the rivets at the back spar flange. This worked fine except for some of the rivets at the top or at the back flange that was almost impossible to reach. However the J-Channel W-1028A Stiffener was easy to rivet and the final three “cells” or Wing Ribs toward the Wing Tip Right was and easy riveting task. Now I only have the final drilling, dimpling and riveting of the nut-plates to the three Access Covers. Time about 8 additional hours for the Right Wing only, for a total of 12 hours to rivet both Wing Bottom Skins Right.

Bottom Wing Skins Section 20-5 Step 10 Right Wing

04/10/2009 … Section 20 Bottom Wing Skins ….Page 20-5 step 10. After placing the Right Wing Assembly into the custom made cradle, where it jointed the Left Wing Assembly, I laid the dimpled and primed W-1028B Wing Box J-Channel Stiffener into the Right Wing Rib notches and then clecoed the dimpled and primed W-1004-R Bottom Inboard Wing Skin to the bottom flanges at the rear spar. Then I used some extra stainless wire and tied back the aluminum W-1004-R Bottom Skin so I could reach the rivets at the back spar flange. This worked great! I was easily able to gain access to the most difficult rivet sets. Then simply rivet towards the sides and front to the main wing spar. When my feet became tired I simple sat on the work stool and “kept on riveting”. Time about 4 hours for the Right Wing.

Bottom Wing Skins Section 20-5 Steps 8 to 9 Right Wing

04/09/2009… Section 20 Bottom Wing Skins ….Page 20-5 Steps 8 and 9. Right Wing, I ground down the edges of W-1004 R and W-1005-R Bottom Wing Skins at the lap joint so as to obtain a better fit, even though the seam is on the bottom of the aircraft. This is not as difficult as it seems with a air powered die grinder. Then I deburred the Bottom Wing Skins and ground off the Alodine (“shinny”) material and dimpled all the appropriate holes with #40 and #30 dies. I also removed the alodine and then dimpled with #40 die the two J-Channels Stiffeners W-1028A and W-1028B Right Wing. Finally after deburring I primed with two coats all the parts and inside of the Bottom Skins with DTM Primer/Finisher. Time about 6 hours for the Right Wing only.

Bottom Wing Skins Section 20-5 Steps 1 to 7 Right Wing

04/08/2009 … Section 20 Bottom Wing Skins page 20-5 steps 1 to 7. I am building the regular X-10 wing so I skipped the Quick Build steps and just completed the necessary steps for the regular wing build. For the Right Wing I began by placing the previously drill J-Stiffener Channels W-1028A and W-1028B into the j-stiffener cut-out in the Right Wing Ribs and then clecoed the Bottom Skins W-1004-R (Inboard) and the W-1005-R (Outboard) to the Ribs and J-Stiffener Channel Right. Then final drilled #40 all the common holes between the W-1004-R and W-1005-R Bottom Skins and the W-1028A and W-1028B Wing Box Stiffeners Right Wing and the Wing Ribs. Then I Final Drilled #19 the screw holes for the Nut-Plates on the Bottom Skins W-1004-R. Then after I was satisfied that no holes were not skipped I dis-assembled the Bottom Skins and J-Stiffeners in preparation for removing the alodine, dimpling and deburring. Time about 3 hours for the Right Wing only.

Bottom Wing Skins Section 20-4 Steps 1 Right Wing

04/07/2009 … Completed step 1 on page 20-4. For the Right Wing only I installed the following sets of wires. 1) 14 gage white 22759/16 Tensel wire for the Duckworks leading edge 100 watts light. 2) 14 gauge for the Van’s 75 watt outboard fairing tip lights. And when the Whelen Engineering light system LN-SYS6 arrives I have installed a nylon string to pull the wire supple in the installation kit. And yes this all fits with room to spare in the 7/16 inch holes. Time about 1 hour.

Bottom Wing Skins Section 20-4 Steps 2 to 6 Right Wing

04/06/2009 … Section 20 Bottom Wing Skins completed steps 2 to 6 on page 20-4. For the Right Wing, I manufactured the Flap Gap Stiffeners W-1021B R /L (the other is for the Left Wing ) as shown in Figure 1. Then clecoed the Flap Gap Stiffeners to the Flap Gap Fairing W-1021-R. Then clecoed Aileron Gap Fairing W-1024-R and final drilled using #40 and #30 size drill bits to the Rear Spar as shown in Figure 2. After final drilling the matching components I deburred and removed the “shinny coating” on all parts then dimpled and primed with DTS Acrylic White primer /finisher. Finally used the correct rivets called out in both Figure 3 and 4. I riveted the Flap Gap Fairing W-1021-R and Aileron Gap Fairing W-1024-R to the top skins and rear spar. Not forgetting riveting the small Flap Gap Fillet W-1021B-R to the end of the Flap Gap Fairing after dimpling for the AN426-3-3.5 flush rivets. Time for just the Right Wing only about 6 hours.

Section 20-6 Bottom Skins Step 1

04/05/2009 …. Section 20 Bottom Skins page 20-6 Step 1. On the Left Wing I final drilled out the 8 access holes and access cover plate holes using the #27 drill for the #8 screws then dimpled with the #8 die and added the nut-plates by means of attaching with AN426-3-3.5 rivets. Then final drilled #19 drill bit and dimpled with #6 die the 4 access holes found on the Access Covers for the #6 screws found on the Main Spar. Time about 2 hours for the Left Wing because I made a mistake and had to drill-out the attached nut-plates and correctly re-attach, only time was lost no material. However I did work all day riveting the Bottom Skins so I was a little tired.

Access Cover Plates Dimpled and Primed

Section 20-5 Step 11 (Continued)

April 5, 2009

04/04/2009 …. Section 20 Bottom Skins Page 20 Step 11. Installed the Pitot Tube mast that I purchased from SafeAir1.com that will hold the sensor Dynon Heated Pilot Tube. Included with the installation kit were explicit instructions on how to mount the SafeAir1.com pitot mast. Entrance to the Dynon Pitot Tube sensor is through the existing access hole and to the right by means of a large lighting hole with-in the wing rib. The process was simple as the instructed detailed and only took about 1 hour.

Pitot Mast being Installed

Bottom Wing Skins Section 20-5 (Continued)

04/3/2009 … Section 20 Bottom Wing Skins ….Page 20-5 step 11. After placing the Left Wing Assembly into the custom made cradle I placed the laid the W-1028A Wing Box J-Channel Stiffener into the rib notches and then clecoed the W-1005-L Bottom Inboard Wing Skin to the bottom flanges at the rear spar. Then I used some wire and tied back the aluminum W-1005-L Bottom Skin so I could reach the rivets at the back spar flange. This worked fine except for some of the rivets at the top or at the back flange that was almost impossible to reach. The J-Channel W-1028A Stiffener was easy to rivet. Now I only have left the riveting of the nut-plates to the access holes. Time about 6 additional hours for the Left wing only, for a total of 12 hours to rivet both Wing Bottom Skins.

W-1005 L Bottom Wing Skin in the Riveting Process

Bottom Wing Skins Section 20-5 (Continued)

April 2, 2009

3/31/2009 … Section 20 Bottom Wing Skins ….Page 20-5 step 10. After placing the Left Wing Assembly into the custom made cradle I placed the laid the W-1028B Wing Box J-Channel Stiffener into the rib notches and then clecoed the W-1004-L Bottom Inboard Wing Skin to the bottom flanges at the rear spar. Then I used some wire and tied back the aluminum W-1004-L Bottom Skin so I could reach the rivets at the back spar flange. This worked great I was easily able to gain access to the most difficul t rivets. Then simply rivet towards the sides and front to the main wing spar. Time about 6 hours for the Left wing.

Riveting the W-1004-L Bottom Skin w/cradel

Bottom Wing Skin Section 20-5

April 1, 2009

3/31/2009 … Section 20 Bottom Wing Skins ….Page 20-5 step 10. After placing the Left Wing Assembly into the custom made cradle I placed the laid the W-1028B Wing Box J-Channel Stiffener into the rib notches and then clecoed the W-1004-L Bottom Inboard Wing Skin to the bottom flanges at the rear spar. Then I used some wire and tied back the aluminum W-1004-L Bottom Skin so I could reach the rivets at the back spar flange. This worked great I was easily able to gain access to the most difficult rivets. The simply rivet towards the sides and front to the main wing spar. Time about 4 hours for the Left wing.

Bottom Wing Skin Section 20-5

3/25/2009… Section 20 Bottom Wing Skins …. Steps 8 and 9. I ground down the edges of W-1004 L and W-1005 L Bottom Wing Skins at the lap joint so as to obtain a better fit, even though the seam is on the bottom of the aircraft. Then I deburred the Bottom Wing Skins and ground off the alodine material and dimpled with #40 and #30 die where appropriate. I also removed the alodine and then dimpled with #40 die the two J-Channels Stiffeners W-1028A and W-1028B. Finally I primed with two coats all the parts and skins with DTM Primer/Finisher. Time about 3 hours for the Left Wing only.

Bottom Wing Skin 20-5

March 25, 2009

3/22/2009 … Page 20-5 steps 1 to 7 I am building the regular X-10 wing so I skipped the Quick Build steps and just completed the necessary steps. I began by placing the previously drill J-Stiffener Channels W-1028A and W-1028B into the j-stiffener cut-out in the wing ribs and then clecoed the Bottom Skins W-1004L (Inboard) and the W-1005-L (Outboard) to the Ribs and J-Stiffener Channel. Then final drilled #40 all the common holes between the W-1004-L and W-1005-L Bottom Skins and the W-1028A and W-1028B Wing Box Stiffeners and the Wing Ribs. Final Drilled #19 the screw holes for the nut plates then after I was satisfied that no holes were not skipped I dis-assembled the Bottom Skins and J-Stiffeners. Time about 2 hours for the Left Wing only.

Dimpled Bottom Outborad Skin W-1005 L

Bottom Wing Skin 20-4

3/21/2009 Completed steps 2 to 6 on page 20-4. Manufactured the two Flap Gap Stiffeners W-1021B L/R as shown in Figure1. The clecoed the Flap Gap Stiffeners to the Flap Gap Fairing W-1021-L Then cleced Aileron Gap Fairing W-1024-L and final drilled using #40 and #30 size drill to the Rear Spar as shown in Figure 2. After final drilling the matching components I Deburred and removed the alodine on all parts then dimpled and primed with DTS Acrylic White primer /finisher. Finally used the correct rivets called out in both Figure 3 and 4 I riveted the Flap Gap Fairing W-1021-L and Aileron Gap Fairing W-1024-L to the top skins and rear spar. Time for just the Left Wing about 4 hours.

Gap Fairing Installed

Bottom Wing Skin 20-4

3/20/2009 … Completed step 1 on page 20-4. Ran the following sets of wire. 1) 14 gage white 22759/16 for the Duckworks leading edge lights. 2) 14 gauge for the Van’s 75 watt outboard fairing tip lights, 3) 14 white gauge pitot for the (+) positive, 4) 14 gauge pitot for the (–)negative, 5) 18 gauge white for the pitot ON signal, and two 22 gauge white wires for the Stall Warning micro-switch. And when the Whelen Engineering light system LN SYS6 arrives I have install a nylon string to pull the wire supple dint he installation kit. And yes this all fits with room to spare in the 7/16 inch holes. Time about 1 hour.

Bottom Wing Skin 20-3

3/17/2009 .. Completed steps 1 to 3 on page 20-3 about wrapping the Stall Warning wires WH-F1001 to the Pilot Tube line to prevent rubbing of the wires on the yet to be installed Stick –to-Bell crank or W-1017A. Then terminated the end with set of electrical spades ES-421-0107 and 0108. Time about 30 minutes.

Bottom Wing Skins Section 20

03/15/2009 ….. Today I completed step 4 on page 20-2 that describes installing the Pitot and AOA lines to the Dynon heated pitot tube. The directions only describe how to install the pitot airspeed line but I decided to drill another 3/8 inch hole install a snap in bushing and run 93 inches of aluminum ATO-032X1/4 inch tubing. To the end of each of the lines I attached 1 AN818-4D bushing, AN819-4D collar and an AN832-4D bulk-head feed through fitting. Time about 2 hours.

The RV-10 wing airfoil is the NACA 23013.5 and has the following physical properties:

A maximum thickness of 13.5%, of cord.

A design lift coefficient of 0.33.
And a maximum camber located 15% back from the leading edge.

The NACA 23013.5 air foil can be defined as the first digit, when multiplied by 3/2,

yields the design lift coefficient (c_l) in tenths. The next two digits, when divided by 2,

gives the position of the maximum camber (p) in tenths of chord. The final two digits

again indicate the maximum thickness (t) in percentage of chord.

This can be found using the following set of equations:

Outboard Leading Edge and Fuel Tank Section 17 and 18 (Left)

March 15, 2009

3/14/2009…. I have attached the Left Outside Leading Edge to the left main spar and the Left pressured checked and tested Fuel Tank to the same left Main Spar. Time about 3 hours due to painting the inside if the leading edge and tank.

Completed Attachment of the Left Outboard Leading Edge and Left Fuel Tank Assembly

Leading Edges Section 17

03/10/2009 …. I purchased a set of DuckWorks Aviation LLC leading edge lights for the X-10 project. The cost was a reasonable $85.00 dollars each for the Rectangular RV-10 Installation Kit only. The installation instructions say that the light could be installed in only 2 hours however I found that for the first light installation 4 hours at least would be sufficient. I am using 14 gauge un-shielded 22759mil spec white wire for the 100 halogen light installation. Therefore I should have plenty of light for night time taxing, a total of 350 watts, two 75 watt Vans wing-tip lights and two Duckworks leading each light at 100 watts each.

Web Link is as follows:

http://www.duckworksaviation.com/

Fuel Tank 18-8 Leak Testing

February 22, 2009

02/22/2009 … Section 18-8 Althought not detailed in the plans design after allowing for the Pro-Seal to cure about a week I then purchased from Van’s a Fuel Tank Leak Tester Kit for $5.00 and a bicycle tire pump for $10.00. The Test Kit contains the instructions for initializing and completing the test(s). You place a rubber child’s balloon over the fuel out line and secure with a tie wrap and then pump air into the tank by means of the supplied tire valve stem to the fuel drain outlet. Also I covered the fuel cap with a rubber latex glove to prove a better air tight seal and inserted into the cap into fuel filler hole. The actual PSI is only about 1 PSI which causes the balloon to inflate insuring a pressure buildup and a pressure "pop-off" valve in case you apply too much pressure, the balloon will inflate and rupture not the seams of the fuel tank. You check for leaks with a paint brush and soapy water, looking for bubbles to appear. The results for the left Fuel Tank was a small leak at a seam where W-1009 Rib and the Top Baffle meet. I fixed this with a dap of Pro Seal and re-tested no leak was seen. Repeated to process for the Right Fuel Tank and no leak was found. Time about tow evening or 4 hours.

Thank goodness that both fuel tanks are completed sucessfully and I saved myself $1,800.00 dollars by doing the work myself.

Fuel Tank Section 18-8

02/15/2009 Section 18-8 … After completing the Steps below for the Right Fuel Tank about 4 total hours.

Fuel Tank Section 18-8

2/12/2009 … Section 18-8…After checking (and passing) the left wing fuel tank for leakage by means of the “water-fill” test I continued onto page 18-8 and finished “sealing up” the left fuel tank. Completed steps 1 to 3. I applied a “skinny” bead of Pro Seal to the Tank Fuel Skin T-1001-L around the rivet holes and a glob of sealant where the Tank Baffle T-1002 and Ribs meet to prevent fuel leaks. After placing the tank assembly into the cradle I carefully lowered the Rear Baffle T-1002 –L straight down onto the rear flanges of the ribs T-1003 and T-1004 as shown in Figure 1. The attached the T-1002 Tank Baffle to the Fuel Tank Ribs T-1003 and T-1004 with the appropriate rivets AD-42H, AD-41H, AN470AD4-5, and AN470AD4-4. Then after applying a small amount of Pro-Seal to the holes on the top of the tank baffle I attached the T-1012 Tank Attach Zee’s. Finally, I riveted the Fuel Tank Skin T-1001-L to the Tank Baffle T-1002-L using AN426-AD-3-3.5 rivets (about 100 rivets) after dipping each rivet in Pro Seal. I accomplished this is about 3 hours and had no difficulties.

Stall Warning System Section 19-3

February 13, 2009

2/5/2009 .. Section 19 Stall Warning System. Today I completed the assembly of the Stall Warning Switch as specified on Page 19-3 Steps 1 to 8. Note: Steps 1 to 10 on page 19-2 were previously completed during the completion of the Outboard Leading Edge Section 17-3 step 12 including the fabrication of the “notch” in the leading edge surface. Time about 2 hours.

Stall Warning Switch utilizing a Microswitch

"Notch" in the Leading Edge Wing for teh Microswitch Leaver Arm

Fuel Tank Page 18-7 Steps 1 to 3

February 2, 2009

2/1/2009 .. Page 18-7 Steps 1 to 3. Today I went flying for about 2 hours in Lowes Aviation C-172M aircraft.

My Other Aircraft I Fly a C172M w/180Hp Engine

After returning home I again started back to work on my X-10 project. This is where I attached Stewart Warner fuel sending sensor. First I bent the wire that the Float is attached to into a figure of 4 inches by 4 inches as described in Figure 1 and trimmed and deburred the excess so the wire would fit exactly. I then inserted the base of the sending unit into the Tank Rib End T-1003B-R adding the screws. I adjusted the float so the complete range from zero at the bottom of the tank to full at the top of the tank with-out hitting the Rib Stiffeners or the aluminum Vent Tube. When satisfied I removed the unit and then added a coating of Pro-Seal to the base and screws and re-inserted and tighten the screws so the Stewart Warner fuel sending senor would not leak. After about a week of drying time for the curing of the Pro-Seal I am going to test the forward leading edge of the tank for leaks using water. Time about 1 hour.

Stewart-Warner Fuel Sensor with Float

Fuel Tank Page 18-6 Step 1 to 6

1/31/2009 .. Page 18-6, Completed Step 1 to 6 today. I purchased at Home Depot the following items, a tub cutter, pipe deburrer and a tubing flaring tool. After master these items I cut a piece at ¼ X .032W X 63 inches in length aluminum tubing. I then created a flare on one end and placed an AN818-4D nut and AN819-4D Sleeve over the end of the tubing. Then inserted into the Tank as shown in Figure 1 until the non-end of the tubing penetrated the snap bushing in the Vent Line Clip. Installed the AN832-4D BulkHead Union and Nut AN924-4D onto the Tank End Rib T-1003B-R. Riveted and Pro-Sealed the Tank End Rib T-1003B-R to the Tank Skin with the proper rivets and after riveting attached the Fuel Vent Line to the Bulk Head Union as further described in Figure 2. This was not very time consuming about 2.5 hours.

Fuel Tank Section 18-5 Steps 5 to 9

1/28/2009 .. 1/30/2009 Section 18-5 Steps 5 to 9. Using both rivets and Pro-Seal I attached the Fuel Cap Flange T-406B and the Vent Tank Bracket T-1008 to the Tank Skin T-1001-L. Then the real work began as I attached using both rivets and Pro-Seal the Tank Rib sets T-100CR, T-1004-L T-1003-L to the Tank Skin T-1001 using AN426ADAD3-3.5 rivets. Then attached the J-Channel Stiffener T-1009 to the Tank Skin by first adding the Pro-Seal substance to the Tank First and sliding the J-Channel through the Rib openings. This helps avoid “smearing” the Pro-Seal. Then finally Pro-Seal and riveted the previously assembled Tank Attach Bracket Sub-Assembly T-1005-L to the Tank Skin as shown in Figure 1. This was very time consuming process. I completed this for only the Left tank and averaged about 1 hour per Rib (there are six of them) plus other required time for a total time of about 12 hours.

End Rib Riveted and "Pro-Sealed" in Place

Fule Tank Section 18-5 (continued)

January 26, 2009

1/26/2009 … Section 18-5 Step 4. Started the completion of using the “Pro-Seal” with the final riveting of the Tank Stiffners to the Tank Skin T-1001 L. After using masking tape to shield the area and then removing the “alodine” (shinny ) finish with the die-grinder and the proper sander attachment I used MEK or Methanol Ethyl Ketene and a shop towel to properly clean the surfaces including the rivets before applying the “Pro-Seal” substance. Then by using the “back-plate” riveting technique I was able to obtain a very nice finish on the factory head of the AN426-3-3.5 rivet. Time about 3 hours for the Left tank only because I was working slow and carefully because of the “Pro-Seal” is very untidy material.

Pro-Seal Leak Proofing the Inside Tank Rib Stiffners

Fuel Tank Section 18-5

1/25/2009 … Page 18-5 steps 1 to 8…. I have begun the necessary task of “pro-sealing” the inside of the X-10 Left Fuel Tank. I fabricated six small pieces of .025 aluminum for sealing the holes that are found on the T-1003, Tank Outboard Rib, T-10000B Tank Inboard Rib-Aft and T-1003C-R Tank inboard Rib Fwd using pro-seal to insure no leaks occur. Per Step 3 attached the T-1010 Anti-Rotation Plate,VA-141 Finger Strainer Flange and finally the Nutplates as described in Figure 2. Time only 2 hours for just the Left side tank.

Fuel Tank Section 18-2

January 18, 2009

1/17/2009 ….. Completed steps 5 to 6 for the Left tank on page 18-2. After removing all the stubborn blue plastic protective warp I place the Tank Skin T-1001 L made out of .032 2024 aluminum into the cradle used for the Leading Edge Skin Assembly and clecoed all the Tank Stiffners T-1101 and the VA-112 Drain Flange to the skin as described in Figure 4. I then Final and Match drilled all the #40 holes as necessary. Finally I clecoed the Tank Outbaord End Rib T-1003, Tank Inboard Rib Fwd T-1003C-R and the Tank Interior Ribs T-1004-L to the Tank Skins T-1001L. Also added J-Channel stiffner and final drilled the to the assembly. Time about 6 hours each tanks, or 12 hours total

Fuel Tank Section 18

1/16/2008 I completed steps 1 to 4 on page 18-2. Where applicable I used the seamer tool to straighten the fuel tank ribs. Then I fabricated the Tank Stiffners T-1011 by cutting with the band saw as described in Figure 1 saving two T-1008 Vent Line Clips that are found at the end of each set of stiffeners. The using the same technique I formed the Tank Zee Attachments T-1012 by cutting between the notches. The for step 4 I cut to a length of 641/4 inch the J-tank Stiffners for the remaining J-Channel. The I drew a line about 5/16 from the edge the length of the fabricated assembly as a aliment aid in match-drilling. Time about 4 hours.

Outboard Leading Edge Section 17-4 (continued)

1/11/2009 … and 1/13 to 15/2009 …. Riveted the Leading Edge Skins W-1001 L/R to the Leading Edge Ribs W-1008 and W-1009 as described in Figure 1 and 2 page 17-4 steps 1 to 5. Also, attached the completed assembly to the Main Spar Assembly Flanges. Time about 10 hours for both Left and Right Wings.

Outboard Leading Edge Section 17-4

January 12, 2009

1/11/2009 … Riveted the Leading Edge Skins W-1001 L/R to the Leading Edge Ribs W-1008 and W-1009 as described in Figure 1 and 2 page 17-4 steps 1 to 5. Also, attached the completed assembly to the Main Spar Assembly Flanges. Time about 10 hours for both Left and Right Wings.

Completed Outboard Leading Edges Section 17

Outboard Leading Edge Section 17-3

1/10/2009 … Completed steps 9 to 14 page 17-3. I dimpled all the #40 holes in the W-100L/R, Splice Strip and all the Rib Flanges W-1009 L/R and W-1008 L/R. I completed priming all parts as necessary with the DTM white primer / finisher and then riveted nut plates to the Splice Strip W-1019 L/R as described in figure 2. Also as per the instructions I riveted the two holes that are used for the Stall Warning Horn on the Right Wing Skin and notched out the area on the Left Wing as described in section 19-2. I also modified the left W-1001-L Leading Edge Assembly for attachment of the Access Hatch Doubler VA-195C to gain access the Stall Warning Sub-Assembly. Following Steps 1 to 12 on page 19-2. Time about 10 hours.

Primed Splice Strip with Nut Plates and W-1009 Ribs ready for Riveting

Outboard Leading Edge Section 17-3

January 7, 2009

1/6/2009 … Section 17-3 Completed Steps 1 to 8 for both left and right sides of the Outboard Leading Edges. I placed the Leading Edge Skin W-1001 L into the fabricated cradle as shown in Figure 1 and added by means of cleco the five Ribs W-1009-L and R and the single Rib W-1008R along with the deburred Splice Strip W-1019L into place. Next I added the J-Channel aluminum Leading Edge Stiffener W-1026 as shown and after securing the entire assembly I match and final drilled all the #40 holes with an air drill and using a #19 drill bit enlarged the screw holes on the Splice Strip W-1019. The machine counter sunk the #40 nut plate attachment holes in the Splice Strip for the head of an AN426AD3 rivet. After accomplishing this I then disassembled the Leading Edge assembly. This completes steps 1 …8. Time for both Outboard Leading Edges about 5 hours.

Outboard Leading Edge Section 17-2

01/5/2009 I have completed Section 17 Outboard Leading Edge steps 1 to 6 on page 17-2. After cutting the J-Channel aluminum Leading Edge Stiffener W-1026 I inscribed a 5/16 inch offset down the length of the assembly as shown in Figure 1. Then I modified two (four actually) W-1009 L and R Leading Edge Ribs for the assembly as described in Figure 2 and Table 1. This created W-10091L, W-1009-2L, w-10091R and W-1009-2R. I next using the band and jig saw I cut out the template VB-11 Wing leading Edge Vee Blocks to fabricate the Leading Edge Cradle Assembly as shown in Figure 5. Then I detached the W-1019 L and R splice strip from the Fuel Tank Sinks using an air die grinder with a thin disk. Time for both left and right Outboard Leading Edges about 3 hours.

OutBoard Leading Edge in Cradle Section 17-2

VAN’s Aircraft Factory Visit

December 29, 2008

December 28 2008. …….. Today I received a real unique treat. During my Holiday Break 2008 I visited the Vans’ Factory where some of my X-10 aircraft was made. I have to say that I was impressed by the overall factory operation at the Aurora Airport in Oregon, near Portland, Oregon. I am orginally from the Pacific Northwest area and therefore am familiar with the area. emoticon . Factory tours are conducted at 9am and 2 pm daily and also include a free short ride in the RV aircraft of your choice. My selection was the RV-10 that I am currently building. During the 1 hour demo ride I was allowed to perform a couple of 360’s, power on and power off stalls and then a couple of simulated approached short field landing and take-offs. The flight included three full sized adults and 40 gallons of fuel and I would say the the aircrafts performs as stated in the specifications. This has given me new motivation to finish the wings (and the project) now that I have confirmed the flight chartistics of the RV-10 aircraft.

The RV-10 Fuselage far Right and Fuselages of various RV Aircraft Pre-assembled Awaiting Shipping in January, 2009

Me with my Dad in front of N410RV at Vans’s Aircraft Aurora, Oregon 2008 before Demo Flight.

RV-10 Factory Quick Build Fuselage Complete

Top Wing Skins Section 16-2

December 11, 2008

12/11/2008 to 12/13/2008 ….. Continued with Section 16-2 steps 5 to 8 riveting the Wing Box J-Stiffeners W-1028A-B to the Wing Skins W-1002 and W-1003 beginning with the center of each skin and working outwards using AN426 3-3.5 head rivets. Next came riveting of the same two wing skins W-1003 and W-1002 to the Main Spar Assembly and the Wing Ribs. Finally riveting the center joining of W-1003 over the W-1002 together and then riveting the “nut-plates” to the inner most wing skins. Time about 8 hours for both right and left wings.

Both Wings resting on top of the "Cradle"

Top Wing Skins Section 16

December 7, 2008

12/7/2008 … Beginning with the right wing first and then repeating the process for the left wing I completed steps 1 to 4 section 16-2. Retrieved the previously created j-channel aluminum Wing Box J-Stiffeners W-1028A-Long and W-1028-B (top right) short and placed into the notches of the Wing Ribs. Then I remove the blue protective coating of the two skins W-1002 (inboard) and W-1003 Top Skins (out boards) and the two Wing Walk Doublers W-1027A and W-1027B and clecoed to the Main Spar assembly. Then I final drilled all the common #40 holes in the assembly as shown in figure 1 page 16-2. There must have been in excess of 100 holes. I also final drilled using a #19 size bit the aft most nut plate holes as shown in figure 1 then machine counter sunk the same holes with a #8 countersink install in a micro-stop. Next I machine counter sunk all the rivet holes that corresponded to the W-1027A and W-1027B Wing Walk Doublers for the head of an AN426-AD3 rivets. Then disassembled and deburred the parts clecoed in preparation of step 5 page 16-2. Time about 4 hours (each) per wing assesmbly.

Top Right Wing Skin Clecoed Section 16-2

Rear Spar Section 15-4

December 5, 2008

12/04/2008 … Completed the final drilling of the #30,#40 and all other necessary holes that were common to the items listed in Figure 1 page 15-4. Then riveted the Inboard and Outboard Rear Spar Doublers, W-1007B Rear Spar Reinforcement Fork, Rear Spar Doubler Plate W-1007C and the W-1007E-L assembly to the main spar ribs as described. Time about 3 hours.

W-1007B Rear Spar Reinforcement Fork and W-1007C Rear Spar Doubler

Rear Spar Section 15-3

12/03/2008 … ….. Finished step 1 to 4 on page 15-3. Match drilled into the Rear Spar W-1007A-L the three Rear Spar Doublers W-1007D, W-1007E and another W-1007D as described in figure 2 and 3. Then I enlarged the aileron pushrod hole found in the Rear Spar Web double plate by rounding the corners to the quarter radius as shown in figure 3 page 15-3. Shown are a couple of the aileron brackets. Time only 1.5 hours.

W-1007D-L and W-1014-L Outboard Brackets

Rear Spar Section 15

December 1, 2008

12/02/2008 … Completed steps 1 to 7 on page 15-2. I removed two out of four notches in the Hinge Bracket Spacer Trim for the Outboard Aileron Bracket Assembly W-1014-L/R using the band saw. Then located two previously trimmed Aileron Hinge spacer, the W-1013C-LX and W-1013C-R Aileron Hinge Bracket sides together along with AN470 AD4 and AN426AD4 rivets. After deburring to remove the factory finish and priming as in figure 2 and 3 then assembled and riveted the same. Time about 4 hours due to deburring and priming.

Wing Ribs Section 14-5

12/01/2008 … 14-5 …. Placed the gold Wing Spar on the work bench and riveted the 15 Wing Ribs 1010 .. 1012 to the Main Spar Assembly with AN470AD4 rivets as described in Figure 2 on page 14-4. Installed and torque to 25 inch pounds each the appropriate AN3-5 .. 21A bolts, AN365-1032 Nuts and AN960-10 Washers through the wing ribs and the main spar assembly as shown in figure 1 page 14-6. Time about 4 hours.

Ribs Riveted and Bolted to the Main Spar

Wing Rib Section 14-3

11/29/2008 …. Page 14-3 riveted the Flap Hinge Rib W-1025B and Flap Hinge Bracket W-1025A to the Inboard Wing Rib W-1011-L both left and right. The riveted the Torque Tube Support Bracket W-1029B-L Angle W-1029C , Flange Bearings, and Spacers to the above Flap Hinge Rib and Bracket. As described in Figure 4. Section 14-4, Drilled both the 7/16 inch Wire Run Penetration holes and the 5/8 inch diameter Pitot Line Penetration hole using a Uni-bit. This was in preparation for the snap bushing SB-625-7. Time about 2 hours.

Wing Ribs Section 14-3

November 27, 2008

11/28/2008 … Today I primed the parts of the ribs W-1010, W 1011 and W 1012 Wing Rib Spars (left and right) and the flap / aileron actuator brackets. The process continues with Steps 5 to 8 page 14-3 riveting the parts with AN470AD4 after the primer dries. Time 2 hours painting.

Wing Ribs Section 14-3

11/24/2008 to 11/26/2008 …. Page 14-3… Spent 5 hours deburring and removing the aladine (mirror coating) finish from all 30 of the W-1010, W 1011 and W 1012 Wing Rib Spars (left and right) and the flap / aileron actuator brackets in preparation for priming before riveting the ribs to the wing spars in the next steps. Time 5 hours.

Wings Ribs Section 14-3

November 24, 2008

Wing Ribs Section 14-3 11/23/20008……..Completed steps 1 to 4 today on page 14-3 . I removed or notched a small amount (19/32 of a inch)of the flange from one of the W-10101 (for both right and left sides) as described in figure 1. Step 2 required removing the aft flange but not the flange radius from one of the W-1012 Outboard Wing Ribs on both right and left. Clecoed the completed W-1010-R, W-1011 L/R Inboard Wing Ribs and W-1012-L/R Outboard Wing Ribs to the Main Spar Assy as shown on Page 14-1. Then Match drilled using the #12 drill the upper and lower attachment points. Final-drilled the #30 and #40 common attachment holes of the rib flanges to the main spars. Then marked appropriately and disassembled the ribs and placed in a cardboard box labeled for the left and right wing to be deburred and then primed before final riveting of the assembly. Time for both wings spars about 6 hours.

W-1010, W-1011, W-1012 clecoed to the Main Spar (Right Spar is shown)

Wings Ribs Section 14-2

SECTION 14 WING RIBS……..11/22/2008 …..Today I finished steps 1 to 10 on page 14-2. I fabricated the three pieces of aluminum. 1) W-1029C angle alum. From the .063 2024-T3 ALCAD into the item described in figure 1. 2) The W-1029D Spacer from a flat piece of .063 2024-T3 5/8 by 1 13/32 inches. 3) The W-1029E Spacer that measured 5/8 by 6 15/32 inches as described in figure 2. Completed Steps 3 to 8 by clamping the W-1029A Torque Tube Support Bracket to the newly created spacers and then adding the VA-146 Flange Bearing assembly between the two, then cleoing the assembly into the W-1029B Rib assembly as shown in figure 5 page 14-2. Steps 9 and 10 were deburing the W-1025A Flap Hinge Bracket and W-1025B Flap Hinge Rib to the W-1010-R Inboard Wing Rib as described in figure 7 and 8. Time to accomplish this for both right and left wings were about 5 hours.

Wings Main Spar Section 13-5

11/21/2008 …… Completed step 1 on page 13-5 attaching the W-1020 Tie_Down Assy Bracket and the two Bell Crank Brackets to the W-SPAR-Assy as shown in figure 1. After priming with Sherwin-Williams B66W1 DTM Acrylic Primer/Finisher paint. Time about 1 hour for both Left and Right Spars.

Tie Down Bracket Attached to the Main Spar (picture shown is horizontal)

Wings Main Spar Section 13-4

11/20/2008 ….. Steps 6 to 10 on page 13-4. I fabricated the Tie Down Bracket W-1020 as specified in Figure 2. And then match drilled the Tie Down Bracket W-1020 to the as shown in Figure 3 to the W-SPAR Assy-L and R. After match drilling I match drilled using a #40 bit for the nut-plates as shown in Figure 4. Then on the back side of the Tie Down Brackets I counter sank the nut-plat attachment rivets after deburring the entire assembly. Time about 2 hours for both brackets.

Wing Main Spar Section 13-3, 13-4

November 19, 2008

11/18/2008 … Continued steps 5 to 9 on page 13-3. Machine counter sunk the fuel tank and access plate attach screw holes using #40 and #30 micro-counter sink these holes were found on the W-SPAR Assy –L and R. And then moved on to steps 1 to 5 page 13-4 where I attached the two different types of nut-plates using AN426AD4 and AN426AD3 rivets after counter sinking the associated nut-plate attachment holes. See Figure 1, Fuel Tank and Wing Attachment Nutplate Installation on page 13-4. Time about 3 leisurely hours.

Wing Main Spar Section 13-3

November 18, 2008

11/17/2008 ….. Completed steps 1 to 4 on section 13-3. Match drilled all remaining 3/32 holes in the flanges of the W-Spar-Assy L and R. Then machine counter sunk appropriate holes that are used as nut plate attachments. The micro-counter sink was set to just fit (flush setting) the AN426AD3-4 rivets factory head. I then riveted all the necessary fuel tank skin attachment nut-plates to the gold spar assembly. Time about 2 hours.

Nut-Plate Attachments to the Wing Spar Assy.

Wings Main Spar Section 13-2

November 16, 2008

11/15/2008 …. I completed steps 1 to 8 on page 13-2. I unwrapped the gold anodized spars W-SPAR ASSY-L and R. and proceeded to add the flange extension W-1006E –L and R with the appropriate rivets (36 ) AN470AD4-5 and the four spar doublers W-1006-L and R as described in Fig. 1. Page 13-2. Steps 5 to 8 page 13-2 were accomplished by fabricating the two (or four including the right spar) Wing Box J-Stiffeners W-1028A each a length of 92.25” inches and then did the same with Wing Box J-Stiffener W-1028B that were 53.75 each. Both of these were attached using clamps and match drilled to the W-Spar Assy-L and R as described in Fig. 2 and 3. Total Time 3 hours.

W-1006E -L Riveted to W-SPAR ASSY -L using four W-1006F with AN470-AD4-5

The X-10 WINGS Arrive !!

November 14, 2008

November 14, 2008 ……..The wings for the "x-1o" project have arrived today. The weight of the two creates were a combined 490 lbs. The shipping cost from coast-to-coast was about $430 dollars (US). After paying freight charges the next step is doing a through inventory of all the shipped goods to insure the purchasing of a complete RV-10 kit from Van’s. Time for receiving and inventory ithe RV-10 kit is about +/-6 hours.

Just Opened the Kit for Inventory

May 2012
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